Koi Info South African Koi Keepers Society http://www.koisa.co.za/koi-info.feed 2016-12-24T05:50:38Z Joomla! 1.5 - Open Source Content Management World Wide Fish Food Facts 2013-03-10T16:57:14Z 2013-03-10T16:57:14Z http://www.koisa.co.za/koi-fish/koi-husbandry/184-world-wide-fish-food-facts.html Chris Neaves [email protected] <h1 style="text-align: center;" align="center"><span style="color: #ff0000;"><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><span style="font-family: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; font-size: 18pt;">KOI FISH FOOD FACTS</span></span></strong></span></h1> <p><span style="font-family: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p> <p><span style="font-family: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; font-size: 12pt;">“In 2006, fish meal prices reached levels that were previously unimaginable and nearly double the high end of the normal range over the past several decades” – the opening statement by Prof. R. W. Hardy, Director Aquaculture Research Institute, of the University of Idaho makes frightening reading for koi keepers.</span></p> <h1 style="text-align: center;" align="center"><span style="color: #ff0000;"><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><span style="font-family: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; font-size: 18pt;">KOI FISH FOOD FACTS</span></span></strong></span></h1> <p><span style="font-family: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p> <p><span style="font-family: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; font-size: 12pt;">“In 2006, fish meal prices reached levels that were previously unimaginable and nearly double the high end of the normal range over the past several decades” – the opening statement by Prof. R. W. Hardy, Director Aquaculture Research Institute, of the University of Idaho makes frightening reading for koi keepers.</span></p> Quarantining Koi 2013-01-02T06:09:36Z 2013-01-02T06:09:36Z http://www.koisa.co.za/koi-fish/koi-husbandry/174-quarantining-koi.html Chris Neaves [email protected] <h1><span style="color: #ff0000;"><strong>Quarantine</strong></span></h1> <h2>Definition<br /></h2> The definition of quarantine is: "A period of time, originally lasting 40 days, of enforced isolation or restriction of free movement imposed to prevent a contagious disease from spreading." <p>This idea of enforced isolation can be used on fishes moving from country to country and also from area to area within a country.</p> <p> </p> <h1><span style="color: #ff0000;"><strong>Quarantine</strong></span></h1> <h2>Definition<br /></h2> The definition of quarantine is: "A period of time, originally lasting 40 days, of enforced isolation or restriction of free movement imposed to prevent a contagious disease from spreading." <p>This idea of enforced isolation can be used on fishes moving from country to country and also from area to area within a country.</p> <p> </p> Prevention is Better than Cure 2013-01-02T05:55:13Z 2013-01-02T05:55:13Z http://www.koisa.co.za/koi-fish/koi-husbandry/173-prevention-is-better-than-cure.html Chris Neaves [email protected] <h1><br /></h1> <h1><span style="color: #ff0000;"><strong>PREVENTION IS BETTER THAN CURE</strong></span><br /></h1> It is a fact that throughout the history of fish keeping there has always been a possibility that the introduction of new fish to an existing pond may mean the introduction of a disease or parasite infection. This is not a foregone conclusion as many new fish have been introduced to koi collections without any problems what-so-ever. Therefore purpose of quarantining is to protect your collection. <p> </p> <h1><br /></h1> <h1><span style="color: #ff0000;"><strong>PREVENTION IS BETTER THAN CURE</strong></span><br /></h1> It is a fact that throughout the history of fish keeping there has always been a possibility that the introduction of new fish to an existing pond may mean the introduction of a disease or parasite infection. This is not a foregone conclusion as many new fish have been introduced to koi collections without any problems what-so-ever. Therefore purpose of quarantining is to protect your collection. <p> </p> Handling of Koi 2013-01-02T05:51:18Z 2013-01-02T05:51:18Z http://www.koisa.co.za/koi-fish/koi-husbandry/172-handling-of-koi.html Chris Neaves [email protected] <h1><span style="color: #ff0000;"><strong>HANDLING OF KOI</strong></span></h1> <p>This is a most important chapter and koi keepers should note the contents.</p> <p> </p> <h1><span style="color: #ff0000;"><strong>HANDLING OF KOI</strong></span></h1> <p>This is a most important chapter and koi keepers should note the contents.</p> <p> </p> Pond Side Identification of Koi 2012-10-06T03:51:17Z 2012-10-06T03:51:17Z http://www.koisa.co.za/koi-fish/pond-side-identification-of-koi/167-pondside-identification-of-koi.html Chris Neaves [email protected] <h1 style="text-align: center;"><strong>Identification of Koi Varieties </strong></h1> <h2 style="text-align: center;">A field guide to Koi varieties to assist judges & enthusiasts in the identification of Koi.</h2> <p style="text-align: center;">Based on the Idea and Concept of Sarel van Rensburg</p> <p> </p> <h1 style="text-align: center;"><strong>Identification of Koi Varieties </strong></h1> <h2 style="text-align: center;">A field guide to Koi varieties to assist judges & enthusiasts in the identification of Koi.</h2> <p style="text-align: center;">Based on the Idea and Concept of Sarel van Rensburg</p> <p> </p> Mending a Split Fin 2011-10-03T16:19:02Z 2011-10-03T16:19:02Z http://www.koisa.co.za/koi-fish/help/152-mending-a-split-fin.html Chris Neaves [email protected] <h1><span style="color: #ff0000;">Mending a Split Fin</span><br /></h1> <p>How to successfully mend a split fin on a Koi with super glue. Jim Phillips takes us through the proceedure.</p> <p> </p> <h1><span style="color: #ff0000;">Mending a Split Fin</span><br /></h1> <p>How to successfully mend a split fin on a Koi with super glue. Jim Phillips takes us through the proceedure.</p> <p> </p> Part Eight: Adding New Fish to an Established Pond 2009-10-25T08:43:09Z 2009-10-25T08:43:09Z http://www.koisa.co.za/koi-fish/koi-husbandry/76-part-eight-adding-new-fish-to-a-established-pond.html <p>Once your pond has been up and running for some time now, and you are in a Koi shop, and "Oh, my gosh look at that beauty; I must take it home." When you get home with your new pet you would want to put it into the pond ASAP.</p> <p>STOP: DO NOT PUT IT INTO THE POND!<br />It does not matter what the dealer tells you, BEWARE, the new pet could KILL all your fish in the pond within a week or two. Even if the dealer has put some medication into the bag.</p> <p>Unless the dealer has Quarantined the fish in a separate pond prior to selling them, and has assured you that they are clean. But then he needs specific nets that are used for that pond only, as the babies can easily be transferred from one pond to the next by using the same net.</p> <p>YOU MUST QUARANTINE your new Koi: How: Where: How long. There is an answer to all of these questions. Many a keeper has lost fish by failing to quarantine them. It may go well for a couple of times then, WHAP you loose most or all your fish. This has happened to many Koi keepers.</p> <p>Firstly you should at all time have a small pond / container at hand that could be used to house a sick or new fish. The easiest way is to go to buy a small Portapool. If you are handy you could make it yourself with material from the local hardware shop. Please ensure that you also acquire a net to cover the pool, as fish tend to jump under stress.</p> <p>Now you need a small air pump or a small water pump to circulate the water If you use a small water pump you can also now filter the water. Get yourself a 20Ltr plastic bucket drill some holes in it. Insert another smaller bucket inside where the pump will fit into, also drilled with holes in the sides, Now between the two buckets you place some shade cloth, this will act as the filter. And place the pump in the center bucket. Fix the return pipe onto the pool inner perimeter provide some small holes in it so that water will splash onto the water surface,- even mist sprayers work well picking up oxygen in the process.</p> <p>If you clean the filter you need to wrap this whole thing in a plastic bag, lift it out of the pond and wash it off. NOTE if this system is being used for the first time you will have to decontaminate the whole system. And after each use as well. There are also ready made units available at your local dealer,</p> <p>Fill this pool with dechlorinated water, then place the plastic bag with your Koi inside to acclimatize water temperature and release them into the water as described above. If it is only one Koi in the pond PLEASE provide him with a friend or two as fish do like company of there own kind- a common gold fish or two will also do the job. Also please provide them with some cover to hide under. You could try a pellet or two and if there is no interest remove them, and try again the next day.</p> <p>It has been suggested that you quarantine them for a whole season, but generally in summer 6 to 8 weeks should be fine. You must however change approx 10% of the total portapool water with some dechlorinated water every second day or so to dilute the Ammonia build up.</p> <p>If you detect no problems with the new arrival after the 6 to 8 week period AND THE WATER TEMPERATURE IN THIS TIME HAS BEEN OVER 18ºC you may transfer them to the main pond, once again being aware of the temperature and Ph difference and equalizing it. If you detect a problem during this period, go to your dealer, describe the problem to him and he will be able to help you with something, he could even do a scraping of the fish and see what the problem is under a microscope.</p> <p>You must however keep a watchful eye out during the quarantine period for any abnormal behaviour. Please note the fish are in a strange environment and will not be at their ease, but they will settle down after a week or so if all is fine. If it is a sick fish that you are treating / quarantining it does not need a friend, but provide it a place to hide as it will feel more secure in hiding. If you do not have a quarantine facility and are unable to follow the above procedures then at the very least it is suggested that you treat the new arrivals in a short bathe of Permaclear ( obtainable at dealers) following the recommended dosages, oxygenating the water heavily through airstones and observing the koi all the time for 30-45 minutes.</p> <p>Remove them on any signs of stress. NOTE: This is not recommended in place of quarantining. Any Koi with KHV for instance, will not be disinfected by this procedure.</p> <p>Once your pond has been up and running for some time now, and you are in a Koi shop, and "Oh, my gosh look at that beauty; I must take it home." When you get home with your new pet you would want to put it into the pond ASAP.</p> <p>STOP: DO NOT PUT IT INTO THE POND!<br />It does not matter what the dealer tells you, BEWARE, the new pet could KILL all your fish in the pond within a week or two. Even if the dealer has put some medication into the bag.</p> <p>Unless the dealer has Quarantined the fish in a separate pond prior to selling them, and has assured you that they are clean. But then he needs specific nets that are used for that pond only, as the babies can easily be transferred from one pond to the next by using the same net.</p> <p>YOU MUST QUARANTINE your new Koi: How: Where: How long. There is an answer to all of these questions. Many a keeper has lost fish by failing to quarantine them. It may go well for a couple of times then, WHAP you loose most or all your fish. This has happened to many Koi keepers.</p> <p>Firstly you should at all time have a small pond / container at hand that could be used to house a sick or new fish. The easiest way is to go to buy a small Portapool. If you are handy you could make it yourself with material from the local hardware shop. Please ensure that you also acquire a net to cover the pool, as fish tend to jump under stress.</p> <p>Now you need a small air pump or a small water pump to circulate the water If you use a small water pump you can also now filter the water. Get yourself a 20Ltr plastic bucket drill some holes in it. Insert another smaller bucket inside where the pump will fit into, also drilled with holes in the sides, Now between the two buckets you place some shade cloth, this will act as the filter. And place the pump in the center bucket. Fix the return pipe onto the pool inner perimeter provide some small holes in it so that water will splash onto the water surface,- even mist sprayers work well picking up oxygen in the process.</p> <p>If you clean the filter you need to wrap this whole thing in a plastic bag, lift it out of the pond and wash it off. NOTE if this system is being used for the first time you will have to decontaminate the whole system. And after each use as well. There are also ready made units available at your local dealer,</p> <p>Fill this pool with dechlorinated water, then place the plastic bag with your Koi inside to acclimatize water temperature and release them into the water as described above. If it is only one Koi in the pond PLEASE provide him with a friend or two as fish do like company of there own kind- a common gold fish or two will also do the job. Also please provide them with some cover to hide under. You could try a pellet or two and if there is no interest remove them, and try again the next day.</p> <p>It has been suggested that you quarantine them for a whole season, but generally in summer 6 to 8 weeks should be fine. You must however change approx 10% of the total portapool water with some dechlorinated water every second day or so to dilute the Ammonia build up.</p> <p>If you detect no problems with the new arrival after the 6 to 8 week period AND THE WATER TEMPERATURE IN THIS TIME HAS BEEN OVER 18ºC you may transfer them to the main pond, once again being aware of the temperature and Ph difference and equalizing it. If you detect a problem during this period, go to your dealer, describe the problem to him and he will be able to help you with something, he could even do a scraping of the fish and see what the problem is under a microscope.</p> <p>You must however keep a watchful eye out during the quarantine period for any abnormal behaviour. Please note the fish are in a strange environment and will not be at their ease, but they will settle down after a week or so if all is fine. If it is a sick fish that you are treating / quarantining it does not need a friend, but provide it a place to hide as it will feel more secure in hiding. If you do not have a quarantine facility and are unable to follow the above procedures then at the very least it is suggested that you treat the new arrivals in a short bathe of Permaclear ( obtainable at dealers) following the recommended dosages, oxygenating the water heavily through airstones and observing the koi all the time for 30-45 minutes.</p> <p>Remove them on any signs of stress. NOTE: This is not recommended in place of quarantining. Any Koi with KHV for instance, will not be disinfected by this procedure.</p> Part Seven: Looking After Your Collection 2009-10-25T08:40:59Z 2009-10-25T08:40:59Z http://www.koisa.co.za/koi-info/34-koi-info/75-part-seven-looking-after-your-collection.html <p>Now that you have the whole system up and running, you need to know something about keeping your koi healthy.</p> <p>In a natural environment, Koi, like common Carp, are omnivorous. They will eat insects, snails and worms as well as algae and plants. Koi are cold blooded and their activity levels are temperature dependant. There body temperature is normally 10ºC higher then the water temp. Koi feed most aggressively above 15ºC, and it is advisable to stop feeding below 10ºC.</p> <p>Water quality also has an effect on their appetite, if the water quality is bad, Koi will not eat. The golden rule is to feed sparingly, and often, and feed as much as they will consume in 5 minutes. Koi pellets are specially blended to suite their dietary requirements, and are available for summer and winter feeding.</p> <p>Various sizes of pellet are available for different sizes of Koi. Overfeeding is more dangerous then underfeeding, as uneaten food will pollute the water, and add lots of  Ammonia to the system.</p> <p>Koi will become very tame and take food from your hand, if encouraged to do so. As a treat they will take brown rice, brown bread, lettuce, shrimp, earthworms and a variety of cooked vegetables.</p> <p>Now that you have the whole system up and running, you need to know something about keeping your koi healthy.</p> <p>In a natural environment, Koi, like common Carp, are omnivorous. They will eat insects, snails and worms as well as algae and plants. Koi are cold blooded and their activity levels are temperature dependant. There body temperature is normally 10ºC higher then the water temp. Koi feed most aggressively above 15ºC, and it is advisable to stop feeding below 10ºC.</p> <p>Water quality also has an effect on their appetite, if the water quality is bad, Koi will not eat. The golden rule is to feed sparingly, and often, and feed as much as they will consume in 5 minutes. Koi pellets are specially blended to suite their dietary requirements, and are available for summer and winter feeding.</p> <p>Various sizes of pellet are available for different sizes of Koi. Overfeeding is more dangerous then underfeeding, as uneaten food will pollute the water, and add lots of  Ammonia to the system.</p> <p>Koi will become very tame and take food from your hand, if encouraged to do so. As a treat they will take brown rice, brown bread, lettuce, shrimp, earthworms and a variety of cooked vegetables.</p> Part Six: Adding Koi for the First Time to Your Pond 2009-10-25T08:37:53Z 2009-10-25T08:37:53Z http://www.koisa.co.za/koi-info/34-koi-info/74-part-six-adding-fish-for-the-first-time-to-your-pond.html <p>Prior to adding fish to you pond for the first time you MUST ensure that all the Chlorine has been removed from your system,- there are anti chlorine pills and additives available from your dealer. And please let the system run for not less then two to three weeks prior to even considering putting in the first Koi. It is also advisable to have the water checked at the dealer. Most dealers provide this service free off charge.</p> <p>Also regularly keep on monitoring the water quality for the first three months while everything settles down, and the filters start operating correctly. Monitor Ph, Ammonia + Nitrite. NOTE Ph and Ammonia are related, Salt 0.3% (3Kgr/1000Ltr) can protect against Nitrite until established. There are a number off very good start off products and water conditioners currently available.</p> <p>When transferring Koi you must equalize the temperature prior to releasing them into their new environment. Leave the plastic bag drifting on the pond for some time. The water temperature in the bag should be no more then 10ºC different to the pond water.</p> <p>Any greater difference in water temperatures may cause thermal shock and even death of the koi. Once water temperatures are nearly equal gently allow some pond water to enter the bag, to even further equalize temp and pH. You can remove some water and do this at least three times at approx 5min intervals.</p> <p>Then remove the fish by hand and place them into the water gently. Under no circumstances pour the fish and bag water into the pond. There are circumstances where one would have to release them directly into the pond, but this is outside the scope of this article.</p> <p>A useful tip: If you know someone who has an existing mature pond and there have been no parasites or health problems in that pond for at least a year, you could place a bag or two of your own biological media in that persons filtration system for a few weeks prior to introducing your first koi. This media can then be placed into your own biological filter a few days after introducing your first koi, thereby seeding your filter with active bacteria and minimizing the dangers of ammonia and nitrite levels rising too high as the<br />filter takes time to mature.</p> <p>DO NOT DO THIS WITHOUT CHECKING THAT THERE HAVE BEEN NO HEALTH PROBLEMS IN THAT PERSONS POND FOR AT LEAST A YEAR.</p> <p>Prior to adding fish to you pond for the first time you MUST ensure that all the Chlorine has been removed from your system,- there are anti chlorine pills and additives available from your dealer. And please let the system run for not less then two to three weeks prior to even considering putting in the first Koi. It is also advisable to have the water checked at the dealer. Most dealers provide this service free off charge.</p> <p>Also regularly keep on monitoring the water quality for the first three months while everything settles down, and the filters start operating correctly. Monitor Ph, Ammonia + Nitrite. NOTE Ph and Ammonia are related, Salt 0.3% (3Kgr/1000Ltr) can protect against Nitrite until established. There are a number off very good start off products and water conditioners currently available.</p> <p>When transferring Koi you must equalize the temperature prior to releasing them into their new environment. Leave the plastic bag drifting on the pond for some time. The water temperature in the bag should be no more then 10ºC different to the pond water.</p> <p>Any greater difference in water temperatures may cause thermal shock and even death of the koi. Once water temperatures are nearly equal gently allow some pond water to enter the bag, to even further equalize temp and pH. You can remove some water and do this at least three times at approx 5min intervals.</p> <p>Then remove the fish by hand and place them into the water gently. Under no circumstances pour the fish and bag water into the pond. There are circumstances where one would have to release them directly into the pond, but this is outside the scope of this article.</p> <p>A useful tip: If you know someone who has an existing mature pond and there have been no parasites or health problems in that pond for at least a year, you could place a bag or two of your own biological media in that persons filtration system for a few weeks prior to introducing your first koi. This media can then be placed into your own biological filter a few days after introducing your first koi, thereby seeding your filter with active bacteria and minimizing the dangers of ammonia and nitrite levels rising too high as the<br />filter takes time to mature.</p> <p>DO NOT DO THIS WITHOUT CHECKING THAT THERE HAVE BEEN NO HEALTH PROBLEMS IN THAT PERSONS POND FOR AT LEAST A YEAR.</p> KHV article from October KOISA Edition 2009-10-25T06:23:44Z 2009-10-25T06:23:44Z http://www.koisa.co.za/koi-fish/koi-diseases/73-koi-show.html <h1><span style="color: #ff0000;"><strong>KOI HERPES VIRUS</strong></span></h1> <p>It has become necessary to document SAKKS' stance on KHV relating to dealers, breeders and hobbyists. All too often has SAKKS been placed in a compromised position where it has been expected to take a stance on conflicting parties who find it difficult to reach a compromise, despite it being a totally private business matter.</p> <p> </p> <h1><span style="color: #ff0000;"><strong>KOI HERPES VIRUS</strong></span></h1> <p>It has become necessary to document SAKKS' stance on KHV relating to dealers, breeders and hobbyists. All too often has SAKKS been placed in a compromised position where it has been expected to take a stance on conflicting parties who find it difficult to reach a compromise, despite it being a totally private business matter.</p> <p> </p>